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MOWING

If you are installing your new lawn in an active growing period such as spring, summer and autumn, mow no sooner than two weeks from installation. Check to see the roots have taken hold in the soil by lifting the edge of a roll or two. Once you cannot lift the roll, it has taken root, and is ready for mowing. If you are laying turf in winter, mowing once a month is usually sufficient unless you have Kikuyu. When you mow, ensure to maintain sufficient leaf cover for photosynthesis. This allows rapid recovery, keeps the soil cool, protects the roots from scorching and suppresses weeds. We recommend the following mowing heights; Couchbetween 12mm and 20mm. Kikuyu and Zoysia between 15mm and 30mm. Buffalobetween 30mm to 50mm.

Mowing heights can be set to the lower height in summer, but it is highly recommended to keep it longer in the winter. Fine grass should be cut shorter than coarse grasses. The aim is to remove no more than ⅓ of the leaf material at any one time.

Mowing too short in summer leads to sun scorching and root damage, and in winter it reduces vigour. If grass is allowed to grow too long between mowing, it will expose stems giving a scalped, patchy and brown appearance. Recovery from scalping will be slow and weed growth will be encouraged. Frequency of cutting depends on your lawn variety, how well it is growing, and the time of year. Lawn grasses recommended for WA conditions grow rapidly in summer and slower in winter. After mowing, clippings should be removed from your lawn. A large amount of clippings can prevent the air, water and sunlight getting to your turf and it can start to rot. Mowing height should be lifted slightly in late April or early May. The taller leaf height increases the amount of carbohydrate, which is then stored in the root system. The carbohydrate protects your lawn against winter frost damage. Mowing higher in winter will also help prevent winter weed germination.

DETHATCHING If your lawn becomes too thick and spongy over winter, de-thatching should be done in spring. To dethatch, first apply eco growth emerald, 3 weeks prior. After 3 weeks, mow as close as possible to the ground.

(For Buffalo owners: stop at this step. Do not vertimow Buffalo! Instead, drop your mowing height down lower and lower at every pass, decreasing height and thatch to ground level).

To remove thatch from a very small lawn, use a thatching rake, which will slice into the lawn and bring up vast amounts of dead material. Rake in one direction to prevent damaging grass roots. The more practical and effective method is to rent a machine called a dethatcher or vertimower. Make at least two passes over the lawn with the dethatcher to get all the thatch. Make the second pass at a 90-degree angle to the first. Once you remove the thatch layer, clean the lawn with a metal leaf rake. Remove all waste. Vertimowing can be performed on Nara, Empire, Kenda, Kikuyu and Wintergreen. Once again, do not vertimow Sapphire or any other Buffalo variety.

Fertilisers

The most important times to feed your lawn is spring and autumn. Fertiliser applied in early spring will help the lawn recover quickly from winter dormancy, and resist the establishment of summer weeds. When applied in autumn, your lawn will maintain growth and good colour well into winter. In summer, fertilising can normally be applied at a rate of 3kg per 100 m². Fertiliser should always be applied when the leaf of the lawn is quite dry, and watered in immediately. Avoid fertilising on very hot days. If lawns are overfed, they become too lush; promoting thatching, diseases and other problems. They also need more frequent mowing. However, as a general rule, fertilise at a rate of 3kg per 100m² (30g per m²) every 6-8 weeks with

Eco Growth Emerald Fertiliser

Watering

Once your lawn is established, you should water during the recommended times set by the Water Corporation. However, you can water by hand at any time. It would also be wise to use a wetting agent and a moisture retaining agent on a regular basis to ensure that your lawn is getting the maximum benefit of your watering. We use and recommend BI-AGRA as a wetting agent and moisture retaining agent. Once BI-AGRA is applied, two deep waterings per week should be sufficient, and will help produce a more drought tolerant lawn.
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Weed Control

Weeds are the greatest pest problem facing the home gardener. Most lawn weeds are opportunistic and quickly take over areas that have become thinned as a result of poor maintenance or inadequate growing conditions. Weeds are fast to germinate, grow and spread. Once weeds are well established, there is little chance that the lawn will be able to out-compete them without you coming to the rescue. To help you find the right remedy to control your weed problem, email a picture to We can help identify and provide the best advice on what to use for your particular variety of turf. Buffalo can be sensitive to regular spray treatments.
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Plugs are chopped sections of instant roll on grass. Each section has nodes (joints) which will produce growth, if properly planted. True Blue Turf offers a plug planting service for areas over 1,000m2.

Stolons/runners being propagated from selected strains are true- to-type and are weed free.

Planting plugs or stolons/runners is best done in the warmer months of spring, summer and early autumn. Turf establishment through the use of stolons normally takes approximately 12 months for full coverage.

STOLONS/RUNNERS FROM SHREDDED TURF

1. Keep the bag(s) of stolons/runners in the shade and keep them moist.

2. Spread the shredded stolons/runners evenly over a well-watered soil surface at a rate of 50m2 per bag.

3. Work in manageable areas of not more than 50m2 at a time. In hot and dry weather conditions, work on a smaller area to avoid exposed runners drying out.

4. Spread as evenly as possible to ensure even coverage.

Spreading cannot be done in windy conditions.

Note: Buffalo runners should be planted in rows approximately 150mm apart. For Buffalo skip steps 5, 6, 7.

ROLLER DISC OR ROTARY HOE

5. For large areas, roll the runners into the soil surface with a disc bladed roller. Make sure that all runners are buried.

6. Roll the disc in several different directions ensuring that most of the runners are pressed firmly into, and beneath the soil surface.

7. Alternatively, for smaller areas hoe the runners into the soil with a rotary hoe implement to a depth of 20-30mm.

8. Roll the area with a pedestrian cylinder roller, making sure all runners are buried. A criss-cross action may be necessary for complete coverage. This ensures close contact between runners and soil, which is needed for prompt growth. It also enables you to flatten out any irregularities and form an even surface.

WATERING

Thoroughly water each section immediately after planting. Runners will quickly die if left in dry, hot soil. To establish stolons / runners successfully, it requires double the water frequency for the rst 10 days.

Please be sure to double the frequency in the ‘Watering Guide’.

For areas over 1,000m2, please contact us for a quote on our plug planting service.

Walk Behind Rotary Hoe

LAYING ROLL ON TURF

Upon receiving your delivery, remove plastic wrapping to avoid heat stress.
Store your turf rolls in the shade and keep them moist. Lay your turf within 24 hours of delivery.

1. Distribute starter fertiliser (palletised chicken manure) @ 20kg / 50m2.
2. Pick a starting point to lay your border; the longest straight edge such as a fence or paved area is a great starting point. Continue to border your selected area.
3. Lay the rows in a staggered brick work pattern to reduce future erosion. Refer to graphic.
4. Lay across slopes rather than down. If the slope is very steep, you may need to hold the rolls in place with a stake until root growth takes hold.
5. Roll the turf out making sure all joins are butted tightly together, with no overlapping. Knock the rolls together with the back of a rake. Press the roll edges down with your feet if needed to flatten down edges.
6. Use a sharp serrated knife to cut the turf around trees or garden beds
7. Ensure there is good contact between the roots of the turf and the soil, leaving no air pockets. It is recommended to compact the lawn with a small plate compactor or roller after completing installation.

A light top soil may be applied to all joins and level any depressions (use yellow sand or the turf underlay soil) – ensure the leaves of the turf are still visible.

Water your lawn within 30 minutes of installation – it should be soaked, not saturated. Ensure that the surface of the lawn is wet through to the root area. Dry patches will quickly die and your new lawn will not survive.

Minimise playing on the turf for at least 2 weeks. For watering, check our Watering Guide

PLANNING

• After your driveway, pathways, shed and pool have been installed, plan your lawn. Sketch all existing structures and design your garden beds and lawn area. Plan an expanse of lawn rather than small segments to reduce maintenance. Where possible, avoid very shaded positions and try to create edges that will make mowing easier.
• While most turf varieties can be laid at any time, spring is a good time to consider a complete lawn replacement as the cooler weather and lower watering demands make the job less troublesome.
• Be sure to select the right turf variety for your functional and aesthetic requirements. It must also be suitable for our climate and your soil type.

SITE PREPARATION

• Eliminate all existing grasses or weeds: spray with a recommended weed killer; for couch use Fusilade Forte (Fluazifop-p) and for all other weeds, including kikuyu, use Roundup (Glyphosate). Wait seven days after the first spray and then water to germinate any other weeds. If needed, repeat spraying and wait a further 14 days.
• Clear the area by removing all rocks, debris, dead lawn and weeds.
• To avoid drainage problems: ensure the soil gradient slopes away from your house foundations or pathways.
• Install reticulation. Test the output and coverage.
• Evaluate your soil type. Heavy clay soils can be improved by adding large quantities of composted organic manure, and possibly gypsum. Never mix just sand and clay. Sandy soils can be improved by adding True Blue Water Saver (page 19) or mixing in a good composted, organic manure.
• The final height of the GOOD soil should be at least 15-20cm deep and 3cm below pathways or driveways. Level off the soil with a rake. The prepared base must be firm enough to walk on, without sinking into the surface.
• Use a tape measure to accurately measure for your turf order. Make sure you order 5% extra to allow for off- cuts.
• Contact your local water authority or supplier regarding exemptions or restrictions, details on page 30.
• Place the order for your chosen turf and turf starter fertiliser (pelletised chicken manure). All products needed are available from True Blue Turf. Please ask our staff for advice on any of our products.
• Water the prepared area well to settle the soil and provide a moist base for your turf, 24 hours prior to installation.

Be sure to select the right turf variety for your functional and aesthetic requirements. It must also be suitable for our climate and your soil type.

All calculations for your lawn order is required in m2. Our friendly staff will calculate the amount of rolls to cover the area.

Square and Rectangle
Calculating the area for a square or rectangle is very simple. Get the overall width and the overall length of the square, multiply the two and the result is the area for the square.

Shapes
The area of shape can be determined by simply breaking the shape into sets of squares, rectangles or triangles. Find the individual areas and add them to give you the total area of the shape.

Circle
To calculate the amount of turf you need in square metres, measure the radius of the circle and multiply (radius x radius) x 3.14
Example: radius of 5 m (5 x 5) x 3.14 = 78.5 m2

Triangle
Calculating the area for a triangle is done by getting the overall width and the overall length of the triangle, multiply the two and divide by half and the result is the area for the triangle.

PLEASE NOTE: All turf is sold per m2
As a general rule, allow 5% extra m2
eg: 100m2 + 5% = 105m2

These watering guidelines are not necessarily compliant with the water restrictions currently in place. Please check with your local water authority.

HANDY HINTS

• In order to know how much water your reticulation system or sprinklers are applying, you need to measure its output. All you need is an empty ice cream container with a 10mm mark on the inside of the container. Place container on the lawn, turn the sprinklers on and time how long it takes to gather 10mm of water in the container. This is the correct time for that station on your controller or sprinkler. Check your sprinklers’ overlap on different spots around your lawn. Make sure you get an even coverage so that no spots get less than 10mm in that time. This may mean some spots get more than 10mm.

• If your lawn show signs of stress (wilting and discolouration), you will need to give it a good drink of 10mm of water per day until the colour comes back. Water by hand on off-roster days. In most cases, dry spots should be treated with BI-AGRA which is a combination of wetting agent and moisture retaining aid, to help with water uptake.

If you are establishing a lawn or garden, you must apply for a water exemption. This will allow you to water enough days to establish your lawn and garden.

For exemption, contact your local household water supplier or visit: www.watercorporation.com.au

Turf is not only a major source of beauty and comfort in our lives; it provides us with oxygen, cleans our water supplies, reduces carbon dioxide and cools our surrounds.

Turf has a positive role to play in combating the build-up of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gasses, caused by the burning of fossil fuels and a range of other human activities. In this way, turf can help in the fight against global warming.

TURF REDUCES HEAT

• It makes your surrounding environment cooler and decreases the energy needed to cool your home.
• The temperature on a green lawn in mid summer is: 10°C less than bare soil 20°C less than bitumen, concrete or pebble mulch 40°C less than dry synthetic turf
• One average front lawn has the cooling effect of 8.75 tons of air conditioning, without the accompanying negative effects on the environment. An average home air conditioner only has a 3-4 ton capacity and increases carbon dioxide emissions.
• Grass provides a greater cooling effect than trees and can achieve the same cooling effect as a pool or lake, with 40% less water evaporation.

Every day a 58m2 lawn provides all the oxygen needed by one person for a day!

One acre of grass produces more oxygen per year than one acre of rainforest.

True Blue Turf is a supplier of artificial grass. As the leading turf supplier of natural turf in the South West, we play with open cards when it comes to facts and honesty. You decide for yourself! Despite our advances in science, no kind of artificial turf can effectively replace natural grass. We acknowledge that in some cases artificial lawn may be the only option.

The maximum safe temperature for a playing surface is 49°C, because temperatures of 50°C and higher can cause skin injury in less than 10 minutes. After observing exceedingly hot temperatures from the synthetic turf, a case was recorded that a coach received blisters on his feet through his tennis shoes. Another startling observation from the study included 93° C was the highest surface temperature recorded on artificial turf on a 37° C day. Studies suggest that carbon fibers used in some artificial turf are as unsafe as asbestos when inhaled.

Whether by hand or withheld magnets, small objects and materials must be meticulously removed and liquids or other residues must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly. Some common elements that home owners must cleanse or remove regularly include:

✖ Food and beverages
✖ Vomit
✖ Gum Metal particles
✖ Wooden splinters
✖ Blood
✖ Animal droppings and
✖ urine

MYTH: Artificial turf is better for the environment, because it doesn’t require water.

FACT: While natural grass requires water to remain healthy, its resulting benefits to the environment far outweigh those costs.

While man struggles to create an imitation of turf with even half the benefits of natural grass, scientists are working with nature to develop stronger, more wear resistant and generally improved natural turf varieties.

The frightening effects of artificial turf on both humans and the environment are already being corrected by natural grass on a daily basis. Athletes and coaches, professionals and amateurs, fans and homeowners all prefer the joy that natural grass brings into their lives. The costs of installing and maintaining a natural lawn provides a far better short- and long-term value than the costs of artificial turf, especially when considering wear and lifespan.

Natural grass is a vital part of a balanced environment, one that future generations should be allowed to enjoy and benefit from as much as we have.

Parliament House in Canberra was designed to have turf on the roof; to reduce noise, increase cooling efficiency and reduce air conditioning costs.